Sunday, August 11, 2013

Project Correct-a-Car pt. 10: Roller Coasters ain't got Nuttin!

Alright!! Carrying on from last week you may remember we were trying to get the engine bay to a point where we could start her. Unfortunately due to time, motivation and light we to leave it in a non-startable way. Thankfully Monday yielded me a couple of extra hours after work so I was able to keep progression flowing.


I must say the engine bay was coming along very nicely! This photo exists only because I realise the one I posted last week was actually incredibly terrible quality.


Continuing on from last week, here's a before and after of the battery tray modifications finished with all auxiliaries installed. Very very VERY happy with how it has come up I must admit! Almost looks like it's meant to be there :) I proceeded to go around all of the hose clamps and make sure everything was tight. Due to the fact that we left the car in a bit of a limbo state on Sunday, there were a couple of loose clamps I certainly knew of, but it never hurts to double check.


To comply with current QLD laws, the pod filter was secured with a small little bracket bought from Super Cheap Auto, cut to size with some tin snips and massaged into shape with a mallet... I like knowing how to adapt :) works well for me!


Fluids were the next thing to go in. Brake, clutch and power steering fluids were added just so the engine wasn't starting with nothing in them, and gearbox oil came in at a lucky last. I never enjoy filling this sucker up... As you can see in the photo the fill port is on the side of the gearbox. Given you've kind of got a lot of metal next to it, it can be very tricky to actually get oil in there. Thankfully a little hand pump made the job a hell of a lot easier :)


By this point I was ready to start the engine. It's always a good idea to manually crank the engine if it's been standing too long - just helps circulate the oil a bit and provide that bit of extra protection when they crank over. Due to the compression in the engine it's not as easy as you may think, yet while this isn't a 'necessary' step it certainly does help for peace of mind.


This is what greeted me. Took a couple of goes to actually run thanks to fuel being so far down the line and blowing out some cobwebs, but once she was running she wasn't a happy camper! She had a misfire, and would also 'hunt' on idle... basically the air/fuel mixture is wrong, and as a result it revs high then low then high etc. It's worth noting that it sounds so ridiculous because the exhaust isn't on yet =P While it was great news that it started, it meant I had a bit of work ahead of me figuring out what was causing the odd behaviour.


The first point of call was the vacuum lines. They are the most common cause of engine shenanigans - as the engine spins it creates a natural vacuum effect that is used to power everything from emission control to brakes. Because we'd made a few modifications along the way, I found that there were 2 nipples on the intake that are used as vacuum sources that were no longer being used thanks to some items we deleted. I made sure to block them off, but unfortunately it did not help with any of the engine dramas. 


I also noticed the high-pitched sound of pressurised air leaking from the engine after it was turned off. It's safe to say that it probably made that noise the whole time, I just couldn't hear it over the other noises that are generated by a running engine. Given that the only real thing I had changed on the engine was the rocker cover gasket, I decided to check that first. Although I didn't find anything obvious, I was informed that it's always a good idea to put some gasket goo around the critical areas of the rubber seal.  Back together and goodbye noise :) Unfortunately it still didn't fix the issue.


It then occurred to me that the fuel in the tank had probably been sitting there for at least 8 months - probably a lot longer than that but I knew for a fact it was at least that old. As a precaution I proceeded to pump 15 litres of old fuel out, to be closely followed by 15 litres of new fuel. Unfortunately Nissan in their infinite wisdom decided to not include a drain plug in their fuel tank. The solution? Bridge the relay for the fuel pump, disconnect a fuel line and pump all the fuel out manually! 

The bright side was at least it worked :) It was off to a bit of a shaky start, but once she was getting solid clean fuel into her, she was happy as Larry! Monday wasn't so bad after all.



Engine done :) I really am chuffed with how well it has come up hey... and in a way I really am disappointed that I won't go to the same amount of effort on the rest of the car - just seeing this difference alone really is a great vote of confidence for what I've been able to achieve.


With the engine completed I moved on to the body work during the rest of the week. Given how stripped she was I had a fair bit to do - but I decided to start with attaching the new fenders. Before I got too far into it though...


... it would only make sense to start with something that's going to take some time - the sunroof. Bogging was the first step to fill in the imperfections. While that was drying I moved back to the fenders.


The hardest part of the fenders was making sure everything lined up. It is hard though when no holes are pre-drilled... I had to guess and check umpteenth times before just taking a punt, drilling a hole and seeing if it worked. Needless to say there was some trial and error involved... especially when you've got 6 different panels that the stupid things have to line up to. Door, bonnet, front bar, lights, pods and body work.


It wasn't until I had both sides fully together, bolted and cable tied where needed until I realised that I had forgotten to install the front reinforcement bar - Nag dabbit!!! Had to pull it all apart to get it in, and re-bolt and cable tie everything back together, something that took the better part of another hour (sigh).


The guards also required a bit of love and massaging to get everything to work. The front indicators were a great example, necessitating the use of several different sized files to get the hole to the right shape so the damn indicator would fit. Thankfully fibreglass is pretty easy to work with, so it didn't take too long!


And here we have the front end kind of back together, with everything installed and lined up :) Small steps I tell you, small steps!


I continued working my way around the body as afternoon turned into evening. It's been a while since I've worked on a car at night with a portable fluoro light for a friend, and strangely enough I found myself missing it! Thing was, I had motivation and drive, and I thought it would be a shame to let it go to waste. I proceeded to install other panels including the side skirts and other pods until it was dinner time... having to clean yourself up to eat is a pretty good excuse to leave it there. No point getting dirty again!


Pretty damn chuffed with the progress I was making :)


Rear fenders were the next thing to cross off the list. 3 drill bits and 40 odd rivets meant the rear guards were attached. A little bit more stable than just masking tape that's for sure! The right side required a bit of man-handling as it didn't sit quite right, but all in all I'm really stoked I decided to go for over-fenders vs. bolt ons. It really does tie the look of the car together much cleaner... Even un-painted they look the goods :)


Back to the sunroof, some sanding was done to be closely followed by some primer-filler to fill in the imperfections. Some more sanding and some paint equals:


Something that resembles a bit more of a roof.

Now while I don't have photos for the next part, let me tell you that's simply because I was too busy and a tad stressed to consider them. Kim (my flatmate) needed the garage ASAP to fix his car. In order for that to happen, I had to get my car to a point where I could completely seal it, and that it would move under its own power. For this to happen, the windows had to go in, the sunroof re-installed, a seat was required in order to drive, the exhaust had to go back on, and the brake and clutch lines filled and bled.

Everything for the most part went to plan, until we got to the clutch lines. For the record, I've never had to bleed a clutch before (for those that are wondering, I'm talking about removing all the air from the lines - not slashing it until it drips fluid in a sinister manner). The idea is pretty simple really, pump the clutch pedal until pressure builds up, hold the pedal in, undo the bleed nipple so the built up air can escape, and rinse and repeat until you get no more air - only straight fluid. 

We did this for a good hour on the clutch slave cylinder (where we thought it would need to be bled from). From what we could tell we had all the air out of the lines, but there was one massive problem - the clutch pedal would only return halfway. With a bit of coaxing from a human, it would return to its original position, but it couldn't do it of its own accord. It also didn't fully engage the clutch when the pedal was pressed, meaning I couldn't select a gear. This had me rather worried! 


I decided to keep going with other work while I tried to come up with a solution. It's a great theory - distract your mind and you end up coming up with what you're chasing... Thanks for the idea Sheldon! (Big Bang Theory reference for those that aren't following =P). Given how close I was to finishing the exterior, I decided to knock that fully on the head before moving onwards. It was certainly bizarre seeing her back together after so long apart!


My priority with the interior was to first make sure I could close her up - if she had to spend a night outside while Kim sorted out the issues with his car, I wanted to know she was going to be lockable and weatherproof. Windows were the first thing to go in, but while I was at it I decided to finish the doors off, as they weren't going to require too much more work and I could say they were done.. Unfortunately this mindset didn't really stop.


Before I knew it I had half the interior back together =\ Screws were absolutely everywhere, so there was certainly a lot of trial and error trying to figure out what went where. Lucky for me there's only so many combinations you can try before you figure it out. There were a hell of a lot of spares, but I had one for every hole so I could only assume they were left over from parts I was no longer using or screws I replaced with new ones. Enough farting around though, back to the clutch problem.

After some reading was done, some things were contemplated, some work was performed and some beers were had, I decided to also bleed the clutch master cylinder. Now while it also has a bleed nipple on it, my lack of experience and gut feeling assumed that you bled fluids at the end of a line, not at the start. Given I was out of ideas I decided to give it a shot. Lo and behold, after 20 minutes bleeding the master cylinder, the clutch pedal acted as one would expect!!! So incredibly thankful it wasn't anything more serious, I was very close to buying new clutch master/slave cylinders =\


With how close I was to finishing the interior I decided to smash it out and knock it completely off. You may notice that there is no carpet installed - that's simply due to the fact that the old stuff was sodden and stank, and as a stripped out track car, the carpet would be the first thing to go so I've decided to leave that at the buyers disgression.

The exterior? Done completely. The interior? Also done completely. Driveability? Time to find out. Not only did she move, she also got out of the driveway with only a minor scrape thanks to the suspension lift I did a while ago! I took her for a quick shakedown around the block, and man it felt good to be back in a proper car!! As expected for a car that's been fully pulled apart and put back together over a couple of months, there are a number of teething issues that need to be sorted out, but for all intents and purposes I think she's at the stage now where it's time to look at saying goodbye.


It really is a damn shame that the exterior is so all over the shop - every inch of me wants to sort her out and get her as one colour with the same finish all over... it's something I've never ever seen in the two and a half years I've owned her for. I'm sure a lot of you know what it's like to have an image in your head - I do genuinely believe she would look properly great if I took the time, money and effort to see her through to the end. I still maintain though, for the time, money and effort it's going to take for that to happen, I honestly don't believe I'm going to see that back afterwards on a sale price, nor will the satisfaction in finishing her compensate for that. 

On that note I guess this is it for Project Correct-a-Car. She is back together, she drives and she has registration. While it's not the ending I had originally envisaged, it certainly is an ending none-the-less. I almost feel at a loss leaving things here... it doesn't feel quite right. I suppose that's one of the benefits of having an engineer's mind - it gets easier and easier to recognise smart decisions and make them objectively. That said, the subjective side of me really does struggle when I open her bonnet and see that shiny new engine bay... 

So where to from here? First up, a look back at everything that's happened - the highs, the lows, and everything in between. I've taken the time to go through all the photos I've taken, and I honestly do believe it's worth it to summarise this epic journey. From there, it will be another project. Another love/hate relationship with another money pit that exists for the sake of keeping me busy, inflicting pain wherever possible, educating me and putting a smile on my face.

Because at the end of the day, that's what it's about. And at the end of the day, it is oh-so-worth-it :)

Sunday, August 4, 2013

Project Correct-a-Car pt. 9: A Milestone of Sorts

My objective these last couple of weeks has been to sort out the engine bay completely. So far I've been able to properly address the appearance and integrity (kind of) of what was the abomination I started off with, which involved an awful amount of: screws, nuts, bolts, clips, hard lines, soft lines, degreaser, sanding, wire-brushing, blood, welding, wax and grease remover, bogging, more sanding, spray paint, rags and sweat. I'm just thankful there were no cir-clips to deal with =D Irrespective of all of this, I still had more to go - so let's get to it!


Carrying on from my last post, I had the engine bay to a point where I could start re-installing everything I had taken out. It really made no difference where I started as it all had to go back in, so I began with the brake and clutch master cylinders. While it's more or less a case of just reversing what I did to take it out, that also happened over 2 months ago so there had to be a bit of trial and error until I got it right. The trickiest bit was to try and line up the mechanism with the pedals inside the car, closely followed by where I put the nuts and bolts I needed =\ At least with Japanese cars, there isn't too much variety in what they use, so I just picked up whatever worked and ran with it. I'll also mention here that I tried to replace what nuts and bolts I could with new items.

The other big challenge was the hard-lines that ran to both master cylinders. In the process of doing all this work, some of them had been bent slightly in the process of trying to remove them or get them out of the way. A little bit of man-handling managed to sort that out, but I'm sure I'll keep tweaking them as the bay gets fuller.

You can also see the list I started developing for random things I found but would tackle later... while I'm sure there's going to be things I'll forget, I want to limit that as much as I can - thanks windscreen!


The next task was to get all of the wiring looms re-installed. This was pretty straight forward thanks to all the electrical faults I've had while owning this car - to say I'm familiar with it is a bit of an understatement! The only time consuming part here was cleaning everything as it went back in. A fair bit of dirt and grime had certainly accumulated over the years, so each section got wiped down in wax and grease remover as it got put back in. I also tried to tidy it up as I went, deleting obsolete plugs and re-wrapping it in electrical tape where needed.


I knew the engine would be going back in shortly so I made a quick order from GKTech for some bits and pieces that fix some outstanding problems and make improvements elsewhere. From top left:
  • New aluminium wheel nuts (to replace the 2 half-sets I currently have)
  • Coilpack cover (never had one)
  • Radiator overflow bottle (see below)
  • Solid shifter bushing (improves shifter feel by replacing nylon bush)
  • Coolant neck spacer (to make installing a water temp. gauge much neater)



You can see why I felt the need to replace the radiator overflow bottle... The old one was a generic P.O.S from Super Cheap Auto - it also used 'custom' brackets to keep it in place.  I decided to replace it with a factory replica that would both look better and install the way it was designed to vs. a hack. The way I figure it, the tidier this all is the better!


I moved from here to re-installing the various ID plates and such that I pulled off. While I don't know exactly what this particular plate is for, it was too cool to leave off the car!


Chassis/engine/compliance plates riveted back in - yes it is intentionally blurry to hide the numbers =P


I also finally put the replacement power steering reservoir back in AND in its original position. Because QLD laws keep changing, a pod filter now only needs to be secured, not covered... so for the sake of keeping this as clean as I can I decided to go with factory looking and change it further down the track if required.


At this stage I decided a trip to Super Cheap Auto was in order for supplies... $230 later I had the fluids I'd need once the engine is back in to get her running, as well as some other random bits and pieces to tidy up some other jobs. Thankfully they also had a sale which means you end up getting things you know you'll need down the track (but not just yet). Come to think of it though, I can't remember the last time they didn't have a sale on =\


Here's the water coolant neck spacer about to go on - the idea is very simple, it simply spaces the water outlet on the engine and allows you to thread a temperature sensor in there... this is a lot tidier than the other option, which involves slicing your coolant hose in half and tee-ing off of that. $40 well spent.


While I was working on the engine, I decided to also clean the engine up as much as I could. A can of degreaser and 2 brushes later, I had a (semi) clean engine. As has been the case with everything else in the car, while it's not perfect it's still 100% on what it was - hopefully the combined effect of all these little touches will make a massive difference :) :)


Both belts got replaced while I was at it... 


Because I deleted the catch can I needed to plumb the oil pickup back into the engine block. I had originally hoped to use the hose I already had from the catch can but it was that worn and dirty I figured it best to just straight up replace it. You can also see to the left of the dipstick (yellow handle) that coolant neck spacer installed.


You may remember a while ago I bought new rubber stoppers for the bonnet. When I started all of this I only had 2 (you're supposed to have 6) and they both got destroyed trying to remove them for painting. I won't know what to do with myself next time I close the bonnet!


And here we have the engine bay as done as it can be... I've installed everything I could either think of or find, cleaned up as much as I can and got it to a point where there was only thing left to do...

Put the engine back in :) Big thanks again to Casey for lending both his engine crane and time to get this done.


Ah just like old times... lifting donks around and putting them places =P Just a disclaimer, you will notice both Casey and Kim in these photos - that's because I was responsible for manipulating the engine crane. No, not lazy!!


Getting it in was easy enough, just lift it up and make sure that you can get enough angle on it so the gearbox bellhousing clears the transmission tunnel. We took the opportunity to plug in as many cables and bolts as we could while we still had good access to the engine.


The biggest issue we had funnily enough was getting the new engine mounts in - they just wouldn't line up no matter what we did! It's tricky because the SR20 doesn't sit flat, it has a natural angle to it. Trying to compensate for this is always fun. We did eventually get it to line up, and proceeded to bolt everything in. The gearbox was challenging though as there's play in the gearbox mount - at least while the bolts are loose. When I first bolted it to the gearbox it went in fine, but it turned out that nothing lined up when we were trying to bolt it to the chassis. Nothing serious but a tad frustrating none-the-less. We did find one thing while we were down there though...


...what was left of a Redback spider. Got to love Australia!


From here it was simply a case of systematically working around the engine, finding plugs and lines and connecting them all.


Fingerless gloves are great to work in, as they protect your hand but also still provide you with dexterity... Not a good look they give you though!


Pieces continued to be put back in one by one as they were either discovered or needed. Room naturally starts to get a little bit scarce but you do what you can. Unfortunately though thanks to some of the new parts we found a problem.


The new intake pipe wouldn't fit no matter what we tried. It fouled on the intercooler piping, the power steering reservoir and the lines that ran to/from it to the pump. We tried everything - manhandling, different silicon joiners, different angles, adding extra piping, relocating the power steering reservoir... nothing would work. Fortunately with some persistence we were able to figure out how to do it while leaving everything in its original place - we just had to tighten one hose clamp before another to give us that little bit of play we needed.


Turns out there's several improvised cup holders you can utilise around the engine bay :)


We got to a point where we were running out of daylight and energy, so this is how she sits at the moment... and I could not be happier :) it looks schmick as! To know that all that hard work has made such a difference feels damn good. We were hoping to be able to start her but we weren't able to get to the point where we could get any fluids in her, so that will have to happen during the week/next weekend.

------------

You all know my original goal has been to see this project through to the end - to make turn this car from a pig into a somewhat dignified lady. Because of the amount of time and money I've invested in this thing so far, I more than anyone else would love to see that happen. However, I've never had any real intention of keeping her for long after she was finished though, as she's just not what I'm chasing in a weekender. While she could be, it would take even more time and money on top of what I'd be doing to see this through, and that's a cost that's getting harder and harder to accept. The fact stands that she is a drift car - it's what all the parts in her are for, and I honestly believe it would be silly of me to make her less of what she's designed for in the interest of making it what I want. Why should I de-tune her and swap out parts that would soften her up when I could sell her as a drift car? And a good one at that!

Given the impending Matsuri Drift, I have come to the conclusion that it's in my best interest to sell her as a drift missile (car designed to be absolutely thrashed) for Matsuri. My time from here would only be spent fixing the body and painting her, an endeavour I believe would not net me the gains I'd be hoping for. 

While it is a decision that is not made easily, I do believe it's the smart decision. I could pursue parting her out but that's just too much time and effort for what it's worth - so I'm better off leaving her as a complete, working car. There's still work to do before I get to that point though, e.g.
  • Finish putting the engine back in including refilling of fluids
  • Rivet rear guards in and install front guards
  • Put all body panelling back on
  • Re-install interior in a manner that would keep her functional but stripped for a track car
Basically I want to get her to a point where she's a together, working drift car that would be beautifully suited to the track. To put this in perspective, here's the parts list:

Under the Bonnet
Stock Sr20det w/rocker arm stoppers
999 Automotive 42mm alloy radiator (modified)
High pressure steering pump hose
Hybrid limited edition Intercooler
Recently serviced with all new Nulon/Penrite fluids (engine, brakes, clutch, gearbox, radiator etc.) and new belts
Cusco brake booster brace
999 engine brace (not fitted)
Brand new Nismo Engine/Gearbox mounts
NPC custom clutch
Rebuilt t25 turbo from MTQ w/adjustable actuator
Apexi Intake
PBM flex front pipe, HKS cat back
Bosch 040 fuel pump
PowerFC tuned by Matt @ FAT333, putting out ~220BHP, 700nM


Suspension/Brakes
Cusco front strut brace
Cusco rear tower brace
HSD coil overs, 12kg front and 10kg rear
KKR castor rods
PBA LCAs (custom)
Option1 drop spindles and tie rods (inc. spare set)
Rack end spacers
999 solid cradle c rings
JIC camber arms
Ikeya formula traction rods
Cusco rear toe arms
Cusco/KTS 2 way diff (can't remember which brand)
4 to 5 stud front spacers
5 stud rear conversion (r33 calipers/rotors)

BM44 Brake Master Cylinder
Upgraded front brakes:
RDA front rotors, slotted and vented with QFM A1RM pads


Wheels
Genuine Work Emotion XT7s
Front: 18 x 8.5 +32, Rear 18 x 9.5 +38
Kumho KU31s all round (60% tread with camber wear on front, however already ripped and flipped)
GKTech open-ended steel wheel nuts

Exterior
Full 180sx front conversion (panels all genuine Type X plastic where applicable) including:

Genuine 180sx bonnet
Type X front bar
Type X side skirts
Type X pods and spats, front and rear (no rear center section)
Type X wing

DMAX Fenders (30mm Front and Rear)
Jun Yan front parkers
Genuine Type X front indicators
Grenade mirrors,non electric
T5 tint, rear quarters and rear

Interior
S15 driver and passengers seats
sAAs steering wheel
Autometer boost gauge

Autotechnic water temp gague (using GKTech Water coolant neck spacer)
Drift button
Nismo gear knob


For those in the know, there's some quality kit in here - and I really would be stupid to mess with this setup. If you're reading this and you are interested, I'm more than happy to talk business.

I am probably letting myself down more than anyone here, but the more I think about it and the further I get into this build, it really does make an increasing amount of sense to go down this path - to move this on and start fresh with something that is a lot closer to what I'm chasing in a weekender. While I'm sure this isn't the way a lot of you expected this blog entry to end, I couldn't not say something given that my mind has been made up on the matter.

On that note, I guess stay tuned to see what happens from here! I'll be damn sure to keep this blog going while I finish this, and then move on towards other motor-vehicle shenanigans :)